01-08

硝梟綺譚研究室 • 硝梟綺譚研究室(七)【豆皮壽司『可能的』身世之謎(上)】
最后更新: 2023年11月4日 上午4:31

《山城國風土記》記載,稻荷神社起源,乃是一個「被當成箭靶射擊的麻糬」,化作白鳥翔逸,其曾棲歇的山峰,長出稻米,被視為神蹟、吉兆,故以「稻荷」稱之。神話背後,往往反應生民祈求和社會需求。麻糬為生民智慧,創造於大旱災中,耐飽經放,由米製成的麻糬,再返回稻米型態,涵藏五穀生生不息的願望。至於白鳥是「飛走」或「逃走」,象徵意義更不同,射箭是貴族文化,假使因射箭而「飛走」的白鳥,其隱喻貴族傳播並教導種植技術,若是「逃走」的白鳥,則表述貴族操控糧食權力,緊扼百姓咽喉。

──節錄自硝梟《京都百鬼咒術篇.第二二章清光加特林機鎗》

伏見稻荷神社,用來供奉狐狸大仙的稻荷壽司(豆皮壽司),其由來普遍有兩說法──

1)狐狸為稻荷神(主掌豐收、穀糧)的使者,喜愛吃油炸豆皮,因此百姓將米飯包進油炸豆皮,進獻稻荷神和狐狸大仙。

2)狐狸愛吃田鼠肉,常跑進農田捕捉獵物,雖保住稻禾根莖不被田鼠啃嚙,卻也致使熟作損壞,是以百姓想出辦法,把米飯包成「田鼠造型」,圓滾滾的褐色皮,放在田邊,一來狐狸見豆皮壽司,如見田鼠(望梅止渴概念?)可飽餐,二來田鼠見狐狸出現,便躲起來,一舉兩得。

硝梟曾訪談一京都耆老,他給出的說法是

「稻荷壽司,其實就是象徵『米俵』。」所謂米俵,即儲存和運輸穀物的木桶,再於外包覆一層稻草秸稈。

彌生時代,始有以稻草裹生米的習俗,或用於祭祀、或用於攜帶;平安時代則出現專門盛稻米的稻草容器;而現在一般常見的米俵形制,即使用專門的稻草編織機,把秸稈編織成一張蓆子,包住木桶的方式,從鎌倉時代開始製作。

說及此,不得不提起網路流傳的一則笑話

壽司何人發明?蘇軾(Sushi)也。

看似笑話,實則稻荷壽司確實和宋代甚有淵源。蘇軾《奏浙西災傷第一狀》寫道

「巡門俵米,攔街散粥,終不能救。」此中「俵」,動詞,譯為分派給予之意。假設依漢語構詞法則,改動詞成名詞,那麼「俵米」,就變成「米俵」。

最早寫出「俵米」兩字的蘇東坡,真是豆皮壽司的發明者?平民料理壽司,本意為利用米飯發酵,進而保存昂貴且難獲取的海鮮,故研發「醋飯」,醋飯竟又與蘇東坡有關嗎?

硝梟綺譚研究室,歡迎各位留言談鬼。


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《山城國風土記》記載,稻荷神社起源,乃是一個「被當成箭靶射擊的麻糬」,化作白鳥翔逸,其曾棲歇的山峰,長出稻米,被視為神蹟、吉兆,故以「稻荷」稱之。神話背後,往往反應生民祈求和社會需求。麻糬為生民智慧,創造於大旱災中,耐飽經放,由米製成的麻糬,再返回稻米型態,涵藏五穀生生不息的願望。至於白鳥是「飛走」或「逃走」,象徵意義更不同,射箭是貴族文化,假使因射箭而「飛走」的白鳥,其隱喻貴族傳播並教導種植技術,若是「逃走」的白鳥,則表述貴族操控糧食權力,緊扼百姓咽喉。

──節錄自硝梟《京都百鬼咒術篇.第二二章清光加特林機鎗》





伏見稻荷神社,用來供奉狐狸大仙的稻荷壽司(豆皮壽司),其由來普遍有兩說法──



1)狐狸為稻荷神(主掌豐收、穀糧)的使者,喜愛吃油炸豆皮,因此百姓將米飯包進油炸豆皮,進獻稻荷神和狐狸大仙。



2)狐狸愛吃田鼠肉,常跑進農田捕捉獵物,雖保住稻禾根莖不被田鼠啃嚙,卻也致使熟作損壞,是以百姓想出辦法,把米飯包成「田鼠造型」,圓滾滾的褐色皮,放在田邊,一來狐狸見豆皮壽司,如見田鼠(望梅止渴概念?)可飽餐,二來田鼠見狐狸出現,便躲起來,一舉兩得。



硝梟曾訪談一京都耆老,他給出的說法是:「稻荷壽司,其實就是象徵『米俵』。」所謂米俵,即儲存和運輸穀物的木桶,再於外包覆一層稻草秸稈。



彌生時代,始有以稻草裹生米的習俗,或用於祭祀、或用於攜帶;平安時代則出現專門盛稻米的稻草容器;而現在一般常見的米俵形制,即使用專門的稻草編織機,把秸稈編織成一張蓆子,包住木桶的方式,從鎌倉時代開始製作。





說及此,不得不提起網路流傳的一則笑話:



壽司何人發明?蘇軾(Sushi)也。



看似笑話,實則稻荷壽司確實和宋代甚有淵源。蘇軾《奏浙西災傷第一狀》寫道:「巡門俵米,攔街散粥,終不能救。」此中「俵」,動詞,譯為分派給予之意。假設依漢語構詞法則,改動詞成名詞,那麼「俵米」,就變成「米俵」。



最早寫出「俵米」兩字的蘇東坡,真是豆皮壽司的發明者?平民料理壽司,本意為利用米飯發酵,進而保存昂貴且難獲取的海鮮,故研發「醋飯」,醋飯竟又與蘇東坡有關嗎?



硝梟綺譚研究室,歡迎各位留言談鬼。


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